AMERICAN SHAD
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Shad is one of the largest and most valuable members of the herring family.
It may grow to a length of 24 inches and weigh from 10-12 pounds, although
the average shad weighs about 5 pounds. It is found along the Atlantic
Coast of the United States from the Gulf of Saint Lawrence to Florida,
but it is most abundant in the Delmarva area. Shad live their adult lives in the Atlantic Ocean. It is only after they reach three to five years of age that they enter the bay and return to their natural freshwater streams to spawn. Some shad begin arriving in Maryland and Delaware streams as early as February, but the main spawning run occurs from late April until early June. According to Chef Edward J. Hennessy, Regency Caterers (Vice-President, First State Chef's Association), the shad is a seasonal fish that is not particularly good during its seafaring stage, when it tends to be salty, scrawny, and dry, but it feeds heavily in preparation for spawning, which then makes it fat and succulent. It remains at its best until after it has spawned, when like many other fish, it becomes exhausted, thin, and tasteless. Chef Hennessy says the shad fillet is best when boned completely as there are many thin and curved bones running through the flesh, but the roe of the female, which at one time was given away, is now much prized by gourmets for its flavor and texture. Chef Hennessy's favorite preparation of the shad and roe is a variation from the traditional planked shad bakes which are common in the Hudson Valley. Season one portion of the fillet with salt and pepper and broil it until done. Sauté the roe in butter and lemon and set it aside with the fillet. Meanwhile, prepare whipped potatoes, a broiled tomato, and buttered asparagus. Clean a 12" x 8" oak plank. Arrange the fish and its role, along with the tomato and asparagus on the plank, surround it with a border of whipped potatoes and garnish with crisp bacon slices. Heat this in the oven and allow the guests to eat directly off the plank. A side dish of marinated cucumber salad goes very well with this beautiful spring dinner. Reference: Food by Waverly Root |
